Reddish Mexican
Loggerheads at Akumal
On a beautiful Mexican beach, a few hours south of Cancun, I finally met up with a real Loggerhead. Unlike the green or hookbeak, the loggerhead is an endangered species of giant sea turtle that calls the beaches and bays of Akumal their home. I wanted to see for myself the famous “Place of the turtles”, (Akumal in Mayan) so my wife and I flew to Cancun and rented a Jeep for a week. We headed south from the airport along the new divided highway that leads to Playa del Carmen. The road was safe and wide until we approached Playa del Carmen where we found several and stoplights and more traffic a couple of miles. We noticed a WalMart and a Home Depot as we left Playa and continued south about 20 more miles to Akumal. We knew that as remote as Akumal seemed, civilization was somewhat accessable.
Akumal’s famous Half Moon Bay is the home for all three varieties of giant sea turtles, as well as an abundant supply of exotic fish and other sea creatures. We checked into our hotel, Las Villas Akumal , and found the accommodations perfect and affordable. We couldn’t wait to go exploring the beaches and bays for the stealthy loggerhead. The hotel staff was very helpful in instructing us about the location of the turtle nests and the precautions necessary to keep the turtle estuary safe and protected. The local ecological office will provide guided tours with reptile experts upon request.
Our villa faced the sugar-white sandy beach where the turtles nest and lay their eggs. The female loggerheads, have an average weight of 200 lbs, drag themselves across the beach and dig nests where they deposit about 100 golf ball-sized eggs each year. These reddish reptiles are turtle-slow on land, but when they hit the ocean they are extremely quick and mobile.
We visited the small village of Akumal located five-minutes walking from Las Villas Akumal , where we rented snorkeling gear and hopped in the ocean. The water was warm, the fish were abundant, and the experience was unforgettable. Under the water we saw various varieties of turtles as well as ancient submerged cannons and anchors. Ah the history!
After a sumptuous meal at Lo Lal Restauant, we were guided along the beach with red-filtered flashlights in search of loggerhead nests. The prime egg laying season is between May and October. Soon we approached a sandy hollow that was full of tiny turtles who looked like little wind-up toys. Before long, the little loggerheads left the nest and headed for the ocean.
We were in awe of nature’s handiwork as we followed our adopted turtles home to the sea. It was so exciting to be part of the magnificent circle of life with in such a beautiful part of the world.
Each day we would awake with great anticipation of our next loggerhead encounter. After morning breakfast at Las Villas Akumal , we would snorkel with the giant loggerheads and greens in the bay. We found many fascinating side trips to occupy our afternoons too. The ancient Mayan ruins of Tulum are located just 20 minutes south of Akumal. We explored some of the waters near Tulum as well and found a flock hawkbeak turtles on their way to the mighty coral reef. Then at night, we returned to the loggerhead nesting areas on the beaches of Akumal. We went with Arturo, who was an official guide with the CEA. He showed us some of the newer laid nests, and tracks of some of the local turtle predators, like tejones and raccoons.
On another afternoon we visited the underground cenotes called Atun Chun. This geological marvel is just five minutes from Akumal. A half-hour guided tour of Atun Chen reveals millions of ancient stillagtites and stelagmites surrounded by milky blue waters that seemed to be from an other epoch. They told us that the movie “Journey to the Center of the Earth” was filmed here.
Again, we spent part of our evenings visiting the secluded loggerback nests and documenting our discoveries. I have a low-light camera that took some pretty cool shots without a flash. At least I thought they were cool.
If you want to have your own loggerhead adventure, it can be easier and more affordable than you think. Round-trip airfare to Cancun is usually available at discounted rates. If you are comfortable driving a rented car, this part of the world is pretty friendly and easy to get around in. Most major car rental agencies have offices at the airport (Hertz, Avis, National, Alamo, Thrifty, Budget, etc) and economy cars can be rented from $25-$50 per day. Jeeps and minivans are more. Las Villas Akumal has one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas with fully-stocked kitchens from $150 per night. The bigger units there will accommodate up to 10 guests. Perfect for our next family turtle vacation.
About the Author
“Swinging in Mexican Hat” Jandspeffer’s photos around Bluff, United States
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